Surprisingly untouristy despite its central location. Interiors are beautiful – tiles and marble of the 16th century, limelight and clouds of steam. The ritual is classic Turkish bath – strong women or hairy men give you a full body massage (girls and guys are separated) and then you get a scrub to get rid of all the dead skin cells. Some discrimination may come in the end – men will be offered tea and TV and women shown to the door. Prepare to fight for your rights – at least a cup of tea.