Feijoada da Tia Surica

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil


Doni Clemons

Samba and feijoada are cherished pillars of Carioca life. And for almost a decade now, Tia Surica has been serving home-style feijao alongside the most heart-felt live Samba music in Rio. Feijoada completa is comprised of black beans slow cooked with smoked meats and accompanied by farofa (toasted manioc flour, similar in texture to cornmeal), couve (thinly sliced, garlicky green vegetable) and sweet cool orange slices on the side. If you are looking for authentic,Tia Surica is the answer. Tia Surica was born in Madureira, a neighborhood in Rio’s North zone and home to Portela. Portela is one of the most prominent and most traditional Samba schools, and Tia Surica has performed with them since she was four. Now her feijoadas are located in the city’s center, housed in the Teatro Rival Petrobras on the last Saturday every month. These days Tia Surica always has invited guests play as musicians in the Samba circles, and if you are lucky, you will catch Tia Surica on stage singing and joking herself. Short of eating at the table of Tia Surica in her private home, you will be hard pressed to find a more authentic and joyful feijoada. The meal is than worth the $18, and Tia Surica makes the experience priceless.


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